Polishing and cleaning pads for Scalextric track

These abrasive polishing pads are ideal for cleaning tarnished, dull and rusty Scalextric track.

Over time the bright metal plating on the surface of the Scalextric track rails will oxidise resulting in a rough and high electrical resistance surface. The high resistance will reduce the performance of any Scalextric car while the rough surface will cause increased ware to your Scalextric pick up braids. When stored in a damp environment the steel track rails can also start to rust forming the tell tail brown marks.
These polishing pads are abrasive and are ideal for cleaning your dirty, tarnished and rusty Scalextric track. These non-woven pads are re-useable and washable and are approximately 50mm x 100mm. Manufactured from a plastic fibre coated in an abrasive material there is no risk of producing a short circuit in the track in the way that wire wool or steel wool does.
The picture of the Scalextric track above clearly indicates how well these track polishing pads remove the tarnish and ageing from the Scalextric track rails caused by long term storage.

• The grey fine grade is for regular use to remove dust, debris and light tarnish from the track rails.
• The green medium grade is for use to renovate tarnished track, not for regular use.
• The red coarse grade is used to renovate track rails with rust marks, not for regular use. Use the fine grade pad or medium grade pad after the coarse grade pad to complete the renovation of your Scalextric track rails.
• The assorted grade pack contains one grey fine grade pad, one green medium grade pad and one red coarse grade pad.

Bring your Scalextric track back to life with these unique Scalextric track polishing pads from Scalextric Car Restorations.

 Scalextric spare parts from Scalextric Car Restorations.

How to clean old Scalextric track

Over time the track rails of Scalextric track becomes tarnished and turns a dull grey colour.  This is caused by the surface plating oxidising and is made worse in damp conditions.  The tarnish has two effects; it reduced the electrical current to the car so the car runs slower and it increases the wear on the pick up braids of the Scalextric cars.

Keeping your Scalextric track clean is therefore very important.  We’ve found the best way to do this is to use a Scalextric track polishing pad that easily cleans off the tarnish and returns the track rails to a clean and shiny condition.  This includes the ends of the track rails where the electrical connection to the next track piece is made.


The clean and shiny Scalextric track gives better electrical conductivity and reduces the wear on the braids of your Scalextric cars.
The plastic base for the track piece can become dirty with dust and oils too.  To clean this use worm soapy water in a large sink or maybe the bath tub.  Use an old nail brush to scrub out the dirt.  Dry immediately to prevent corrosion of the track rails.
Another great solution from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric track C8222 to connect Sport track to Classic track

You can extend your old Classic Scalextric track layout with the modern Scalextric Sport track pieces to create a larger layout and one with the modern Sport and digital features.

This Scalextric C8222 track conversion kit comprises 2 pieces of new Scalextric converter track. These allow you to add modern Scalextric Sport track pieces to your existing Classic Scalextric track layout. Each track piece is 175mm (approx. 6.8 inches) long.
Available from Scalextric Car Restorations.

10 reasons why your Scalextric car stops or hesitates on the track

In order for your Scalextric car to give the best lap times under race conditions the track and car must both be in the best of condition. It is common for a car to hesitate or stop on the track spoiling the usual enjoyment Scalextric car racing can give. Listed below is a simple fault finder that will quickly resolve your problem.

Do other cars pause, slow or hesitate at the same point on the track?
For a Scalextric car to give its best performance the track must be in good condition. Below are some common faults found in track layouts.
1.  Dirty or dusty track
It is common for Scalextric cars to drop a small amount of oil onto the track conductor rails as the car is used. This oil builds up over time and can hold onto any dust that may land on the track. Dirty and dusty track can be wiped clean with a cloth.
2.  Tarnished track rails
Over time the bright metal plating on the surface of the Scalextric track rails will oxidise resulting in a rough and high electrical resistance surface. The high resistance will reduce the performance of any Scalextric car while the rough surface will cause increased ware to the pick up braids. The track rails need to be cleaned with a track polishing pad to return the rails to a bright clean and smooth finish.
3.  Poor track rail connections
It is well known that in a medium to large track layout the joints between the individual track pieces can offer high electrical resistance causing a car to slow or hesitate at the far end of the layout. The solution is to electrically connect the track pieces together with a track power booster cable.
Does the car hesitate on left hand corners, right hand corners or the straights only?
It is clearly important that the electrical current flows from the track rails to the car’s motor with as little resistance as possible. Over time several faults can occur with Scalextric cars to reduce their track performance.
4.  Pick up braids
The car’s pick up braids need to be in good clean condition and both be in constant contact with the track rails. If the braids are worn or very dirty then they will need to be replaced with new braids, these are available as normal tin plate finish braids and pure copper braids.
5.  Poor wire connection to the pick up braids
The connection between the pick up braids and the wires are critical to the performance of any Scalextric car. Most of the cars from the 1970 through to the 1990s used little metal pins to connect the wires to the braids. These pick up pins must be present and clean to give the best connection.
6.  Motor connection wire broken
As the guide pivots over time it can cause the motor wire to fracture internally. The motor wire should be replaced if this is found to be the cause. It might be easier to replace the whole guide assembly with the wires already fitted.
Does the car sound normal but moves slowly or not at all?
This can be caused by a mechanical problem between the motor and getting the power down to the track.
7.  Broken motor pinion gear
One of the most common faults is that the motor pinion gear (the little white gear on the motor shaft) can split. This allows the gear to turn on the shaft. A new motor pinion gear is required to fix this problem.
8.  Damaged rear axle gear
It is common for the gear on the rear axle to have damaged teeth. This is especially true if the motor pinion gear is broken. A replacement rear axle gear is required to remedy this problem.
9.  Loose rear wheel
It is common for the rear wheels to become loose on the axle shaft. If this is the only problem then the wheels can be glued into position or alternatively replacement rear wheels can be fitted.
10.  Tyres with little grip
In order for your Scalextric car to give the best lap times under race conditions the car tyres will need to give their best performance. It is necessary to keep the tyres in good condition. Even the best replacement tyres will reduce in performance if not maintained. Replacement tyres are available for most Scalextric cars and are easy to find with our unique tyre finder.
There are many other possible faults especially with the earlier cars with the open frame motors. This is intended as a simple fault finding guide only. If the information above does not resolve the fault then contact Scalextric Car Restorations for further information.

Scalextric track C8201 radius 1 hairpin curve

One of the best ways to spice up the racing on your Scalextric track layout is to add a Scalextric C8201 radius 1 hairpin curve.  This piece of track has the tightest radius of any and turns through 90 degrees.

Scalextric cars have to really slow down to take this corner which gives 3 points of skill; when to brake, how fast can the car take the corner and when can I accelerate.  This is just like real cars and no strong Neodymium magnet will save the day if the car is going too fast.
Used in conjunction with the Scalextric C8246 Side Swipe track pieces the hairpin corner is a great addition to any Scalextric layout.

Another great insight from Scalextric Car Restorations

Building your own slot car (Scalextric) track layout

Putting together lots of Scalextric track pieces is a good way to build a temporary or a semi permanent track layout.  The choice of interesting Scalextric track pieces is OK especially with some of the Scalextric Digital options.

For a fully permanent layout the limitations of using Scalextric track pieces can be done away with by making your own slot layout.  There are only two things you need, the slot and the conductors.  After that, you can design what ever shape circuit you like.
The slot can be cut into the base board using a router with a suitable bit and for the conductors you can use self adhesive copper tape.  The copper tape is available on rolls with plenty of length.  The board can be painted to form the track, run off areas, add height, field and all sorts of props to give your layout realism.
Finally, the best benefit of this type of layout – the magnatraction magnet doesn’t work!!
Another great idea from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric pin guides on new Scalextric track

The early Scalextric cars used a pin to run in the slot of the Scalextric track rather than a blade used later.  Several Scalextric guides were produced but the most popular was the round pin guide sometimes known as the Scalextric G3 round pin guide.



There are a few problems with the pin guides:

• The pin can snap easily
• The pin can wear out

Another problem is where you layout has a crossover for the slots as the pin can change lanes and go onto the other slot in the track, effectively changing lanes.  These means that the early Scalextric cars fitted with the various pin guides are not suitable for track layouts with crossovers or anywhere where the slot is not continuous.

Another great insight from Scalextric Car Restorations

Clean and smooth Scalextric track rails

Over time and especially if the Scalextric track is stored in a damp environment, the steel rails of your Scalextric track can become discoloured and slightly rough as the electroplated surface corrodes.  This slows down the Scalextric cars and wears out the Scalextric car braids more quickly.



To prevent this simply polish the Scalextric track rails back to a smooth clean surface with the track polishing pad.  This will do the job more quickly and effectively than any other method we know of.

Another great insight from Scalextric Car Restorations

Can new Scalextric cars run on the old Scalextric track?

On the whole, yes, a new Scalextric car can run on the old classic Scalextric track.  The dimensions of all the interfaces are the same.  However, there are some exceptions.  The modern cars have fixed front axles which mean they like relatively flat track otherwise a front wheel will lift the guide up causing the pick up braids to come away from the track rails and the car can stop or hesitate.



Classic Scalextric track features to avoid are the traditional banked corners and the hump back bridge as some new cars belly out on that.  There may also be a problem negotiating the rock used in the classic chicane track.

The other way around, can the classic Scalextric cars be used on the modern Scalextric Sport track?  This now does depend on the cars and in particular the guide used.  Some of the older Scalextric cars fitted with a pin guide can have problems with the cross over pieces and junctions on Digital track.

Modern Scalextric Sport track offers less mechanical grip compared to the classic Scalextric track and so grip can be a problem.  This can be overcome by using Max Grip tyres or adding a Neodymium magnet fitted between the motor and rear axle.

Another great insight from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric pin guides on new Scalextric track

The early Scalextric cars used a pin to run in the slot of the Scalextric track rather than a blade used later.  Several Scalextric guides were produced but the most popular was the round pin guide sometimes known as the Scalextric G3 round pin guide.



There are a few problems with the pin guides:

• The pin can snap easily
• The pin can wear out

Another problem is where you layout has a crossover for the slots as the pin can change lanes and go onto the other track

Another great insight from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric track and track maintenance

Hi,
In this blog we are looking into Scalextric track and track maintenance. There are several areas where your Scalextric track can cause problems, these are:

• Corroded or oxidised track rails
• Bent or warped track pieces
• Poor electrical connections
• Dirty and dusty track
• Compatibility between different track types
• Building your own track layout

Corroded or oxidised track rails

Over time and especially if your Scalextric track is stored in a damp environment, the steel rails of your Scalextric track can become discoloured and slightly rough as the electroplated surface corrodes. This slows down your Scalextric cars and wears out the Scalextric car braids more quickly.
To prevent this simply polish the Scalextric track rails back to a smooth clean surface with the track polishing pad. This will do the job more quickly and effectively than any other method we know of.

Bent or warped track pieces
Scalextric track has a tendency to bend or warp over time. This may have many causes among which are people stepping on the track laid on the floor and perhaps the way that the classic track clips together doesn’t help.

Warped track works well enough but can give your Scalextric cars a very bumpy ride, especially down the long straight. Also, the newer Scalextric cars will struggle as they are far more likely to ground out on a bumpy Scalextric track layout.
The answer is to shape the Scalextric track pieces back to level. To do this simply reverse the bend in the track a little at a time and a bend at a time until the track is visibly flat again.
The most common problem then is that the vertical sides of the steel track rail bend outwards and block the slot in the track. This is remedied by pushing the bulge back out of the way with a flat blade screwdriver. There you have it, flat, level Scalextric track that works for new Scalextric cars as well as your older Scalextric cars.

Poor electrical connections
An odd phenomenon that can occur with a Scalextric track layout is that over time part of the track layout looses power. The Scalextric cars run great near to the track power base or where the power is connected to the track but slow down away from the power connection point.
This effect can happen several weeks or even several months after a circuit has been constructed and not usually right away. We are not too sure of the exact mechanism that causes this but we know it’s the joints between the track pieces that introduce a high resistance to electrical current.
There are 2 readily used fixes for this problem with Scalextric tracks; one is to regularly take up the track and relay it with the track pieces in different locations, strange but true. The second is to run a Scalextric track power booster cable around the track and make connections to the track every couple of meters or so.

If your Scalextric track layout is permanent then you’ll be best advised to make an electrical connection to every track piece with the Scalextric track power booster cable. The best type of connection is a solder joint.

Dirty and dusty track
The only form of grip for a Scalextric car is between the 2 rear tyres and the track surface. Grip provides the acceleration force, deceleration force and the cornering force too. Physics tells us that the amount of friction is proportional to the amount of force pushing the surfaces together and the friction between those surfaces.
Force = Friction x Normal force
To give the most grip the track surface has to be as clean as possible. So, how do you keep your track dust free? The simplest way is to wipe your Scalextric track over with a damp (NOT wet) cloth and ensure the track is dry before you go racing. This will remove the dust and debris and give you the best possible grip from your Scalextric track.

Compatibility between different track types
Over the years there have been several different types of Scalextric track systems used. The earliest is the rubber track used in the very early 1960s. This changed to the plastic track with the round clips which remained in production until the early 2000s and is still very common today.
Currently there is the modern Sport track with it’s straight clips and the Start track. All four types of track are NOT compatible with each other. The most common types are the current Sport track and the classic track with the round clips. There is a Scalextric converter track piece available to join these two track systems together.

Building your own track layout
Putting together lots of Scalextric track pieces is a good way to build a temporary or a semi permanent track layout. The choice of interesting Scalextric track pieces is OK especially with some of the digital options.
For a fully permanent layout the limitations of using Scalextric track pieces can be done away with by making your own slot layout. There are only two things you need, the slot and the conductors. After that, you can design what ever shape circuit you like.
The slot can be cut into the base board using a router with a suitable bit and for the conductors you can use self adhesive copper tape. The copper tape is available on rolls with plenty of length. The board can be painted to form the track, run off areas, add height, infield and all sorts of props to give your layout realism.
Finally, the best benefit of this type of layout – the magnatraction magnet doesn’t work!!
How best to resurrect your old Scalextric set

If you want to find out more about bringing back to life an old Scalextric set you’ve had in the loft for years then this article is for you … read more

Can new Scalextric cars run on the old Scalextric track?

On the whole, yes, a new Scalextric car can run on the old classic Scalextric track.  The dimensions of all the interfaces are the same.  However, there are some exceptions.  The modern cars have fixed front axles which mean they like relatively flat track otherwise a front wheel will lift the guide up causing the pick up braids to come away from the track rails and the car can stop or hesitate.



Classic Scalextric track features to avoid are the traditional banked corners and the hump back bridge as some new cars belly out on that.  There may also be a problem negotiating the rock used in the classic chicane track.

The other way around, can the classic Scalextric cars be used on the modern Scalextric Sport track?  This now does depend on the cars and in particular the guide used.  Some of the older Scalextric cars fitted with a pin guide can have problems with the cross over pieces and junctions on Digital track.

Modern Scalextric Sport track offers less mechanical grip compared to the classic Scalextric track and so grip can be a problem.  This can be overcome by using Max Grip tyres or adding a Neodymium magnet fitted between the motor and rear axle.

Another great insight from Scalextric Car Restorations

The best Scalextric track layout

What makes a great race Scalextric track layout is very much the same as for a real race track.  The track layout has to be challenging for both the driver and the Scalextric cars.  The older Scalextric cars without magnatraction will be challenging on most Scalextric track layouts.  It’s the modern Scalextric cars with Neodymium magnets that are the challenge to design a track layout for.


With strong magnets, fast motors and tyres with good grip modern Scalextric cars can manage corners at very high speeds so the slot car track design needs to slow down these cars and put the driver back in control.  This is done with the use of different types of corners.

The best Scalextric track layout should have radius 1 corners and possibly a radius 1 hairpin.  We like to place these at the end of a long straight as this forces the driver to find a braking point as there’s no way the car will go round the corner at speed.  This puts the skill back into racing.

Another corner feature we like to use is either a corner that gets tighter or a corner that starts tight and then opens up into a straight.  Again the driver has to control the car on the throttle.  Theses corners can be built from a radius 1 45 degree corner piece, then a radius 2 45 degree corner piece and finally a radius 3 45 degree corner piece.  Combining the two ideas gives a long straight into a radius 1, then a radius 2 and finally a radius 3.  Both the braking point and the acceleration have to be finely controlled.

The final feature we like to use is a series of s curves that again tighten or opens up, again the throttle has to be controlled carefully for best performance.  This time go for a 90 degree set of corners that change direction each time.  This will give you some great Scalextric racing.

Another great tip from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric pin guides on new Scalextric track

The early Scalextric cars used a pin to run in the slot of the Scalextric track rather than a blade used later.  Several Scalextric guides were produced but the most popular was the round pin guide sometimes known as the Scalextric G3 round pin guide.

There are a few problems with the pin guides:

• The pin can snap easily
• The pin can wear out

Another problem is where you layout has a crossover for the slots as the pin can change lanes and go onto the other track

Another great insight from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric track and track maintenance

In this blog we are looking into Scalextric track and track maintenance. There are several areas where your Scalextric track can cause problems, these are:

• Corroded or oxidised track rails
• Bent or warped track pieces
• Poor electrical connections
• Dirty and dusty track
• Compatibility between different track types
• Building your own track layout

Corroded or oxidised track rails

Over time and especially if your Scalextric track is stored in a damp environment, the steel rails of your Scalextric track can become discoloured and slightly rough as the electroplated surface corrodes. This slows down your Scalextric cars and wears out the Scalextric car braids more quickly.
To prevent this simply polish the Scalextric track rails back to a smooth clean surface with the track polishing pad. This will do the job more quickly and effectively than any other method we know of.

Bent or warped track pieces
Scalextric track has a tendency to bend or warp over time. This may have many causes among which are people stepping on the track laid on the floor and perhaps the way that the classic track clips together doesn’t help.

Warped track works well enough but can give your Scalextric cars a very bumpy ride, especially down the long straight. Also, the newer Scalextric cars will struggle as they are far more likely to ground out on a bumpy Scalextric track layout.
The answer is to shape the Scalextric track pieces back to level. To do this simply reverse the bend in the track a little at a time and a bend at a time until the track is visibly flat again.
The most common problem then is that the vertical sides of the steel track rail bend outwards and block the slot in the track. This is remedied by pushing the bulge back out of the way with a flat blade screwdriver. There you have it, flat, level Scalextric track that works for new Scalextric cars as well as your older Scalextric cars.

Poor electrical connections
An odd phenomenon that can occur with a Scalextric track layout is that over time part of the track layout looses power. The Scalextric cars run great near to the track power base or where the power is connected to the track but slow down away from the power connection point.
This effect can happen several weeks or even several months after a circuit has been constructed and not usually right away. We are not too sure of the exact mechanism that causes this but we know it’s the joints between the track pieces that introduce a high resistance to electrical current.
There are 2 readily used fixes for this problem with Scalextric tracks; one is to regularly take up the track and relay it with the track pieces in different locations, strange but true. The second is to run a Scalextric track power booster cable around the track and make connections to the track every couple of meters or so.

If your Scalextric track layout is permanent then you’ll be best advised to make an electrical connection to every track piece with the Scalextric track power booster cable. The best type of connection is a solder joint.

Dirty and dusty track
The only form of grip for a Scalextric car is between the 2 rear tyres and the track surface. Grip provides the acceleration force, deceleration force and the cornering force too. Physics tells us that the amount of friction is proportional to the amount of force pushing the surfaces together and the friction between those surfaces.
Force = Friction x Normal force
To give the most grip the track surface has to be as clean as possible. So, how do you keep your track dust free? The simplest way is to wipe your Scalextric track over with a damp (NOT wet) cloth and ensure the track is dry before you go racing. This will remove the dust and debris and give you the best possible grip from your Scalextric track.

Compatibility between different track types
Over the years there have been several different types of Scalextric track systems used. The earliest is the rubber track used in the very early 1960s. This changed to the plastic track with the round clips which remained in production until the early 2000s and is still very common today.
Currently there is the modern Sport track with it’s straight clips and the Start track. All four types of track are NOT compatible with each other. The most common types are the current Sport track and the classic track with the round clips. There is a Scalextric converter track piece available to join these two track systems together.

Building your own track layout
Putting together lots of Scalextric track pieces is a good way to build a temporary or a semi permanent track layout. The choice of interesting Scalextric track pieces is OK especially with some of the digital options.
For a fully permanent layout the limitations of using Scalextric track pieces can be done away with by making your own slot layout. There are only two things you need, the slot and the conductors. After that, you can design what ever shape circuit you like.
The slot can be cut into the base board using a router with a suitable bit and for the conductors you can use self adhesive copper tape. The copper tape is available on rolls with plenty of length. The board can be painted to form the track, run off areas, add height, infield and all sorts of props to give your layout realism.
Finally, the best benefit of this type of layout – the magnatraction magnet doesn’t work!!
How best to resurrect your old Scalextric set

If you want to find out more about bringing back to life an old Scalextric set you’ve had in the loft for years then this article is for you … read more

How to flatten your Scalextric track

Scalextric track has a tendency to bend or warp over time.  This may have many causes among which are people stepping on the track laid on the floor and perhaps the way that the classic track clips together doesn’t help.



Warped tracked works well enough but can give your Scalextric cars a very bumpy ride, especially down the long straight.  Also, the newer Scalextric cars will struggle as they are far more likely to ground out on a bumpy Scalextric track layout.

The answer is to shape the Scalextric track pieces back to level.  To do this simply reverse the bend in the track a little at a time and a bend at a time until the track is visibly flat again.

The most common problem then is that the vertical sides of the steel track rail bend outwards and block the slot in the track.  This is remedied by pushing the bulge back out of the way with a flat blade screwdriver.  There you have it, flat, level Scalextric track that works for new Scalextric cars as well as your older Scalextric cars.

Another great insight from Scalextric Car Restorations

How best to resurrect your old Scalextric set

Abstract

Frequently the older Scalextric sets are rescued from long term storage. This article shows that in six simple steps a typical Scalextric set can be brought back to life and enjoyed once more.

Introduction

Scalextric sets produced from 1960 through to around 1990 can be temperamental at times. This is particularly noticeable when the Scalextric set has been in long term storage. Numerous fault can occur even when the set is not in use as well as faults induced by the storage conditions. Damp and high humidity can cause corrosion and mould growth, dust can coat everything and materials can age, for example the shrinkage of plastics over time.
This article lists six simple steps that when followed will ensure an old Scalextric set can be brought back to life and offer great enjoinment more. The six steps are:

• Completeness of the set
• Inspecting for damaged parts
• Resurrecting the track
• Checking the power supply and controllers
• Resurrecting the cars
• Upgrading the cars

Part 1 – Completeness of the set

Any Scalextric set or layout needs to have all the necessary parts in order to operate properly. In this first section we’ll consider the completeness of your old set and generate a list of items you’ll need to source to get your set up and running again.
If you have an original boxed set then the contents will be listed in the relevant Scalextric catalogue or in the instruction sheet that came with the set. If your Scalextric set is one with many added accessories, cars and other parts then it’s a case of checking against the generic list given below.

• Power supply
• Hand controllers – at least 2 off
• Track – a good range of straights and corners
• Barriers
• Track support pieces for bridges and banked corners
• Cars – at least 2 off

If any of the above are missing then sourcing suitable parts will be necessary. Make a list at this stage as other parts may be needed later, just because something is present doesn’t necessarily mean it will work.
With the track you should ensure that paired or matching track pieces are present in the correct quantities, for example if you have a long chicane then you’ll need both an “in piece” and an “out piece”. Also if you have a cross over you’ll need to ensure you have two of these, that is if you want to race 2 cars. Match these track pieces and keep them together for now.
Every item should be checked briefly for any obvious damage or missing parts, for example hand controllers with no attached wires. Items found to be unusable should be put to one side and added to the list of parts required.
At the end of this section of resurrecting your old Scalextric set you’ll have two piles of parts, one where the parts look OK to be used and one where the parts cannot be used. You’ll also have a list of missing parts and damaged pieces that you need to source.
You can, of course, start sourcing the missing and damaged pieces of your set immediately or wait until after part 2 where we’ll inspect all the parts for damage and draw up a complete list of what’s needed.

Part 2 – Inspecting for damaged parts

Part 2 of this guide on resurrecting an old Scalextric set takes a closer look at the quality of the items you have in your set. In part 1 you may have discarded some components as clearly damaged and in this part we’ll examine the remaining pieces in a little more detail to identify any parts that are also damaged.
Let’s start with the power supply and controllers. Check the power supply for any visual defects, missing or incorrect mains plug top, exposed mains wires, damaged mains wire insulation. If there are any doubts about the mains side of the power supply then consult a qualified electrician. On the low voltage side of the power supply (transformer) check that the connection studs and thumbscrews are present and undamaged. If all looks good then the power supply can be testing by connecting a 21W car bulb to the output of the power supply. The bulb should illuminate brightly and consistently.
For the hand controllers, visually inspect each controller housing and ensure the operating lever moves through its full displacement smoothly and returns to the fully off position. Inspect the wires for damaged insulation and confirm the connection plugs and eyelets are present and undamaged. Connect the hand throttles to the known good power supply and the output of the controllers to a 5W car bulb. The bulb should not illuminate with the hand controller in the off position. Slowly operate the hand controller and the bulb should illuminate ever more brightly until full throttle is achieved.
With the power supply and controllers working correctly it’s time to inspect the track pieces. Firstly check that the plastic connection lugs are all present and correct, then check for visible corrosion on the steel track rails (orange / brown rust marks). Light corrosion can be removed with a track polishing pad but deep pitting will be difficult to remove and a replacement tack piece will be needed. Check that the conductor rails wrap around the plastic end lugs such that each track piece electrically connects to the next, then check the flatness of the track. Many older track pieces tend to bow in the middle giving very a uneven running surface.
Some of the specialised track pieces, e.g. crossovers, have small wires underneath to electrically connect the track rails together. Visually check these are present and are making good connections.
Finally, your Scalextric cars. Inspect the cars for any obvious missing or damaged parts Obvious faults to look for are:

• Hardened and cracked tyres
• loose drive wheel hubs
• Missing external body pieces
• Missing guide blade and braids
• Excessively worn pick-up braids
• Cars from the late 1970 through to the late 1990s may have a split motor pinion gear
• Damaged wiring
• Binding drive gears

If the car looks complete then the first test is to turn the driven wheels by hand. The wheels should turn the axle and the motor armature. Feel for freedom of movement and for binding of the drive system. Any binding, however slight, should be investigated.
The easiest way to check the functionally of a car is to connect together the power supply, one hand controller and one piece of track. Place the car on the track and with one hand lift the driven wheels off the track surface slightly. Then apply a very small amount of power with the hand controller. The motor should hum slightly and the driven wheels should turn slowly. With some of the older cars the motor will hum but the wheels may not turn, this is normal.
Then apply around one third throttle and the motor pitch should increase and the wheels turn faster. If the wheels do not turn then stop this test as there is a fault which will need to be investigated. Listen for a repeating clicking sound from the car. If this is heard then stop the test as there may be a fault with the drive gears. Further investigation will be required.
With the driven wheels turning freely on one third throttle the next step is confirm the condition of the electrical connections. Still at one third throttle, pivot the car around the guide pivot slowly in one direction until the end stop is reached, now back in the other direction until the other end stop is reached. If the motor hesitates during the test then the wiring and connections will need further investigation.
These checks and tests will give you a good indication of what parts of your Scalextric set are damaged and need to be replaced or repaired.

Part 3 Resurrecting your track

Now that all the damaged parts of your old Scalextric set are identified it’s time to start to get things into working condition. In part 3 of this guide we’ll look at your track and get it into full working order. There are a couple of common problems with old Scalextric track:

• Dull and rough metal track rails
• Bow in the track surface along the track piece length
• Narrowing of the slot between the track rails
• Dirty and dusty track surface

Let’s start with the dirty and dusty track surface. Just like a real race track, the surface of your Scalextric track is vital for grip and the performance of your cars. Track that has been stored well may need nothing more than a wipe over with a damp cloth. However, very dusty track may need a good scrub with an old nail brush in warm soapy water. We recommend adding washing-up liquid as this will also remove any oil and grease deposits. Dry the track quickly to prevent any further corrosion of the track rails.
With the track clean the next step is to flatten out any bowing or kinks in the running surface. This is accomplished by gently bending the track back to a flat level surface. While doing this you may find that the track rails buckle into the slot, blocking the slot. This is normal and should not be considered a problem at this stage. The important point is to get the track as flat and level as you can.
Now that the track pieces are all clean and flat we can take a look at the slot between the track rails. Some track pieces may have a narrowing of the slot especially towards the ends of the track piece. This is usually caused by the steel rails not being crimped well to the plastic track moulding. Tightening of the crimping will resolve this. Then, you may find that the slot narrows at the very end of the track piece where the next track piece will electrically connect. This is resolved by pushing the track back into shape with a flat blade screwdriver. The same technique is used for any localised bucking along the slot length, simply push the buckle out of the way to open up the slot.
Finally the running surface of the track rails need to be polished back to bright, shiny metal. This will give better electrical connection to the car giving higher speeds and better acceleration. Also, there will be less rolling resistance to the car and far less ware on your pick-up braids. The track polishing pad is ideal for this task bringing your track rails back to shiny metal easily. Even light corrosion can be removed but deep pitting will be difficult to remove.
By now your track will be ready for use with a good, clean track surface and bright shiny, smooth track rails. Time to design your layout …

Part 4 Checking the power supply and controllers

Part 4 of this guide on resurrecting your old Scalextric set takes a closer look at the power supply and controllers you have in your set. In part 2 you may have discarded some of the power supply and controller components as clearly damaged and in this part we’ll examine the remaining pieces in a little more detail to identify any parts that are also damaged or not functioning correctly.
Let’s start with the power supply. Check the power supply for any visual defects, missing or incorrect mains plug top, exposed mains wires, damaged mains wire insulation. If there are any doubts about the mains side of the power supply then consult a qualified electrician. On the low voltage side of the power supply (transformer) check that the connection studs and thumbscrews are present and undamaged. If all looks good then the power supply can be testing by connecting a 21W car bulb to the output of the power supply. The bulb should illuminate brightly and consistently.
The power supply should emit a quiet humming sound and if this sound is louder than expected then the transformer itself inside the power supply is at fault. If the humming sound is excessive then the whole power supply may need to be replaced. Repairing or replacing the transformer can be carried out by a fully qualified electrician.
Some of the earlier power supplies are also fitted with a manual reset button which switches off the output of the power supply if there is a short circuit in the output or if too much current is drawn. This can be checked by deliberately connecting together the output terminals for a short duration. The output protection device should then disable the output of the power supply. The reset button can then be pressed to re-energise the output of the power supply. Later power supplies also have this protection device which automatically resets itself after a few seconds.
Various replacement powers supplies are available if needed.
For the hand controllers, visually inspect each controller housing and ensure the operating lever moves through its full displacement smoothly and returns to the fully off position. To do this operate the trigger slowly to the full power position and then release it very slowly until at the fully off position.
Inspect the wires for damaged insulation and confirm the connection plugs and eyelets are present and undamaged. Connect the hand throttles to the known good power supply and the output of the controllers to a 5W car bulb. The bulb should not illuminate with the hand controller in the off position. Slowly operate the hand controller and the bulb should illuminate ever more brightly until full throttle is achieved.
Replacement hand controllers are available if needed.

Part 5 Resurrecting the cars

Part 5 of this guide on resurrecting your old Scalextric set takes a closer look at resurrecting your old Scalextric cars. In part 2 you should have inspected your cars for any obvious missing or damaged parts. The obvious faults to look for are:

• Hardened and cracked tyres
• Loose drive wheel hubs
• Missing external body pieces
• Missing guide blade and braids
• Missing motor
• Excessively worn pick-up braids
• Cars from the late 1970 through to the late 1990s may have a split motor pinion gear
• Damaged wiring
• Binding drive gears
  

If you haven’t carried the inspection of your cars as covered in part 2 of this guide then you should do so now before preceding with the process below.

1. Carefully take your car apart to the major components. Some Scalextric cars are held together with screws, some with sliding clips and some where the chassis clips into the body.
   Note: Some cars are difficult to unclip the body from the chassis, if in doubt then contact us for further information.
2. All the plastic parts (body, window moulding, chassis, driver plate, wheels etc.) can then be cleaned in warm soapy water. Use a nail brush or similar to remove all the dust and dirt. This will most likely also remove any water slide decals that have been added to the car. The plastic mouldings may have become brittle with age so support them while applying pressure with the nailbrush. Once the plastic parts are clean rinse them off with fresh water and dry thoroughly. Some of the cars from the 1960s tend to have a white powdery mould growing on them. This can be removed through repeating this cleaning process until all the mould has gone.
3. Once clean and dry inspect the plastic parts for for any damage. Parts not suitable should be discarded and replacements sourced.
4. The motor should have a small drop of lubricating oil on each bearing and then be tested at full speed for a short period of time and at race temperature to test the bearings, the armature windings and the motor brushes. If the motor fails any of these tests then replace it as it would be of little use under race conditions. The open frame RX and Formula Junior motors can sometimes be repaired, see our article “How to service the RX motor in your Scalextric car” to find out more.
5. The wiring to the motor should be checked and repaired as necessary. If you are in any doubt about the condition of the wiring then replace it as a damaged conductor can be hard to find and can ruin a good car.
6. The white plastic motor pinion gear fitted to cars from the late 1970 through to the late 1990s can crack and become loose on the motor shaft. Check for this and replace the motor pinion gear if you are unsure.
7. Check the condition of any other electrical items fitted to your car, usually lights. On some cars the lighting circuits are polarity sensitive as they are fitted with LEDs which are polarity sensitive. Replace blown or damaged bulbs.
8. Reassemble the bearings, spacers and wheels onto the axles. If the wheels are loose on the axles then a small drop of super glue will keep them in place.
9. Refit the axles to the chassis. They should be a secure fit and rotate freely.
   Note: For the rear axle the large flat disc of the contrate gear should be on the RIGHT of CENTRE as viewed from the UNDERSIDE of the car. If the rear axle is fitted the wrong way round the car will go backwards.
10. Refit the motor and all the other electrical items to the chassis / body of the car. Use new pick-up braids and new pick-up pins (if pins are used on your car). The old pins, especially if crimped to the wires can be a common cause of open circuit wires. There are 2 sizes of pick-up pins are available, 1.75mm and 1.95 mm, if you are not sure which you need then contact us.
11. Fit new tyres to the rear (driven) wheels unless your original tyres are in very good and grippy condition. Front (non-driven) wheels can take visually good used tyres. Give all the bearings and gears a drop of oil to enhance performance and prolong their life. Check the gears for smooth and free operation. If you feel any resistance then contact us for further information.
12. If all is well then put the chassis on the track and ensure the car is OK electrically and goes in the right direction. If the car goes in the wrong direction then swap over the wires at either the guide OR the motor.
13. Refit all the parts back into the body, windows, driver plate etc.
14. The assembled upper body can now be re-fitted to the completed chassis. Carry out the tests from part 2 of this guide once more to confirm the car is functioning as well as can be expected. Run the car on the track confirm the tyre grip.
15. Finally, the ancillary or decorative parts can be fitted, e.g. bumpers, wing mirrors , spoilers etc. and decals.

With the cars, track, power supply and controllers all working correctly it’s time to race and have some fun.

Part 6 Upgrading the cars

Part 6 of this guide on resurrecting your old Scalextric set takes a closer look at upgrading your old Scalextric cars. In part 5 you should have restored the cars so that they run like they did when they were new. Unfortunately that means they are no match for the modern range of Scalextric cars and suffer all their original handling and performance problems.
Upgrades to a Scalextric car essentially fall into one of two categories, those that are totally reversible and those that are not totally reversible. The upgrades that are totally reversible are the best to start with as you can undo the upgrades and get your original car back. These upgrades are:

• Higher performance tyres
• More powerful motor
• Adding weight
• Wider axles

1. Just as with a full size car, a Scalextric car relies on its tyres (rear tyres) for traction, braking and cornering. Simply put, the better the grip of the tyre the better the performance of the Scalextric car. For many Scalextric cars there are higher performance tyres available. The very best results are obtained with our max grip series of tyres.
2. The next step is to increase the power of the motor. If your car has an RX open frame motor then use an adaptor kit and fit a Johnson motor. If your car has a Johnson motor then again use an adaptor kit and fit a Mabuchi motor. If you already have a Mabuchi motor fitted then consider one of the latest and more powerful versions of the Mabuchi motor. If you are not sure which motor you have then use our free Library of motors to identify your motor.
3. Adding weight to your Scalextric car can make it more stable in the corners and accelerate more quickly. Weight over the rear driving wheels will reduce wheel spin by increasing the friction between the tyres and the track. For the Engineers this is simply a case of F=µN. Adding weight increases N and therefore proportionally increases F, the friction. Use Bluetac and steel ball bearings to put the weight where you need it.
4. The Scalextric cars from the 1970s and 1980 had a tendency to tip over in corners due to a floating front axles. This effect can be reduced by replacing the current axles with wider ones which increases the stability of the car in corners allowing corners to be taken at higher speeds.

The upgrades above can be carried out to most older Scalextric cars and can be adjusted and removed as necessary. The upgrades that are NOT reversible are the next to try. Which, if any, of these you try will result in permanent alterations to your car which may affect its value. If you are unsure DO NOT proceed with these upgrades:

• Add a magnatraction magnet
• Lower the guide height
• Fix the height of the front axle

1. Adding a magnet to your Scalextric car will give an instant performance increase if fitted in the right location. Remember that the magnet will also give the car an increase in rolling resistance and so can be overdone. Use magnets only with Mabuchi motors for best effect. The best place to fit a magnet is just in front of the rear axle between the rear axle and the motor. This will give the best grip for the rear tyres.
2. By lowering the guide the centre of gravity of the car is lowered too. This will give your car more stability in the corners. Note that it is not possible to lower the guide on all Scalextric cars.
3. With most of the older Scalextric cars the front axle is allowed to move up and down. This allows the car to traverse the banked corners and obstacles in the track. If your track is mostly flat then the front axle can be fixed in location giving a great increase in cornering stability. The front wheels should be placed so that they just touch the track with the weight of the front of the car still on the guide blade.

There are, of course, many other upgrades you can make to your Scalextric car to improve its track performance. The points listed here are the more common ones and the ones that can make a big difference to the car with the least amount of effort. For other ideas and some test results have a look at what happened as we upgraded an old Scalextric C52 Ford Escort RS1600.
This concludes our series on how best to resurrect your old Scalextric set. We hope you’ve enjoyed this series of articles and found them helpful. If you have any feedback please let us know.

About the author

Gary Harding has been working with Scalextric cars for over 30 years and now operates Scalextric Car Restorations in the UK. Scalextric Car Restorations is a Worldwide internet based business that offers for sale high quality Scalextric cars and Scalextric spares and parts from the 1960s to the present day. All the restoration work is carried out to the highest standards with the highest quality parts available. Only the best cars are selected and the final result is a car that is genuinely like new.
Further help and advice relating to this article or Scalextric cars in general can be found at:
http://www.scalextric-car.co.uk

10 reasons why your Scalextric car stops or hesitates on the track

In order for your Scalextric car to give the best lap times under race conditions the track and car must both be in the best of condition. It is common for a car to hesitate or stop on the track spoiling the usual enjoyment Scalextric car racing can give. Listed below is a simple fault finder that will quickly resolve your problem:

Do other cars pause, slow or hesitate at the same point on the track?
For a Scalextric car to give its best performance the track must be in good condition. Below are some common faults found in track layouts.

1.  Dirty or dusty track
It is common for Scalextric cars to drop a small amount of oil onto the track conductor rails as the car is used. This oil builds up over time and can hold onto any dust that may land on the track. Dirty and dusty track can be wiped clean with a cloth.

2.  Tarnished track rails
Over time the bright metal plating on the surface of the Scalextric track rails will oxidise resulting in a rough and high electrical resistance surface. The high resistance will reduce the performance of any Scalextric car while the rough surface will cause increased ware to the pick up braids. The track rails need to be cleaned with a track polishing pad to return the rails to a bright clean and smooth finish.

3.  Poor track rail connections
It is well known that in a medium to large track layout the joints between the individual track pieces can offer high electrical resistance causing a car to slow or hesitate at the far end of the layout. The solution is to electrically connect the track pieces together with a track power booster cable.

Does the car hesitate on left hand corners, right hand corners or the straights only?
It is clearly important that the electrical current flows from the track rails to the car's motor with as little resistance as possible. Over time several faults can occur with Scalextric cars to reduce their track performance.

4.  Pick up braids
The car's pick up braids need to be in good clean condition and both be in constant contact with the track rails. If the braids are worn or very dirty then they will need to be replaced with new braids, these are available as normal tin plate finish braids and pure copper braids.

5.  Poor wire connection to the pick up braids
The connection between the pick up braids and the wires are critical to the performance of any Scalextric car. Most of the cars from the 1970 through to the 1990s used little metal pins to connect the wires to the braids. These pick up pins must be present and clean to give the best connection.

6.  Motor connection wire broken
As the guide pivots over time it can cause the motor wire to fracture internally. The motor wire should be replaced if this is found to be the cause. It might be easier to replace the whole guide assembly with the wires already fitted.

Does the car sound normal but moves slowly or not at all?
This can be caused by a mechanical problem between the motor and getting the power down to the track.

7.  Broken motor pinion gear
One of the most common faults is that the motor pinion gear (the little white gear on the motor shaft) can split. This allows the gear to turn on the shaft. A new motor pinion gear is required to fix this problem.

8.  Damaged rear axle gear
It is common for the gear on the rear axle to have damaged teeth. This is especially true if the motor pinion gear is broken. A replacement rear axle gear is required to remedy this problem.

9.  Loose rear wheel
It is common for the rear wheels to become loose on the axle shaft. If this is the only problem then the wheels can be glued into position or alternatively replacement rear wheels can be fitted.

10.  Tyres with little grip
In order for your Scalextric car to give the best lap times under race conditions the car tyres will need to give their best performance. It is necessary to keep the tyres in good condition. Even the best replacement tyres will reduce in performance if not maintained. Replacement tyres are available for most Scalextric cars and are easy to find with our unique tyre finder.

There are many other possible faults especially with the earlier cars with the open frame motors. This is intended as a simple fault finding guide only. If the information above does not resolve the fault then contact us for further information.
Scalextric Car Restorations